If Bacolod and Iloilo have the famous batchoy, and Batangas has the well-loved lomi, then Bicol has its very own noodle soup that, though not as renowned, is definitely at par when it comes to flavour and satisfaction with its regional counterparts.
In fact, its story, like the dish itself, is quite delicious.
Kinalas is a specialty that started in Barangay Dayangdang in Naga, Camarines Sur. It is said that before starting their early dawn shift, tricycle drivers would boil cattle heads for long hours. By the time their morning stint ends, the broth would already be potent and flavorful, while the meat would be falling off the bone, or “kumakalas,” which means “to remove the meat from the bones”
It made for a rich and filling breakfast for the drivers. Not long, the locals caught word of it and people made their own versions, which they have turned into food businesses.
Among them is Mang Kok, by couple Arvin and Emi Salgado. They have been selling kinalas in their garage since 2015. The owners confessed that they usually serve over 400 bowls a day.
Aside from soft noodles which are part of a traditional bowl, their version comes with hard-boiled egg, chicharon and siomai. For an extra P40, people can even enjoy it with mata ng baka or cow’s eyes, which is considered an indulgent add-on. Those who prefer it without meat, can go for the log-log.
What makes the kinalas unique and very much different from other Filipino noodle soups is the brown gravy poured on the base of the bowl, before the noodles and soup are dumped. Stemming from ingenuity and the purpose of using every part of the head, the brown sauce is made with cow’s brains, which helps thicken the broth and add a liver spread-like flavor. These days, different kinds of gravy are used, depending on the cook, from a shrimp and garlic-forward variant to a simple flour-butter roux.
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