There is no other dish that exhibits commonality and difference better than pancit. It is common throughout the country yet unique across the regions, reflective of each locale’s topography, lifestyle, and history.
Pancit has been around since pre-colonial times, brought over by early Chinese traders centuries before the Spaniards arrived in 1521. As time went on and more countries came and went, it would undergo its own evolution to become a truly Filipino culinary tradition.
These influences are echoed in the pancit Malabon, one of the most popular varieties of pancit in the Philippines. Over four hundred years ago, Malabon was called Tambobong due to the pervasiveness of tambo trees in the town. It was also abundant in labong, or bamboo shoot, which, according to Algoreth’s Etimologias Filipinas, was one of the original ingredients of pancit Malabon.
According to Discover Malabon, the characteristic red sauce, which is made with shrimp juice, fish sauce, and annatto, among other ingredients, as well as its toppings were developed to imitate the Spanish paella Valenciana. Like the popular seafood paella, Malabon’s signature pancit flourished using available seafood, dried fish, plus pork and eggs. Fish sauce, which was heavily traded during the Spanish period, was also employed to heighten the flavor.
Unlike other similar dishes, pancit Malabon noodles weren’t meant to be twirled. In fact, they are usually served already cut (or at the very least, easy to cut with a fork and spoon) to resemble the rice in paella.
Like other kinds of pancit, however, this version is heavily influenced by the local topography. Malabon is a city northwest of the National Capital Region. Its namesake pancit features thick noodles that are made from a combination of rice and flour. Since the early days, these specific noodles were produced in the nearby province of Bulacan. Another main component of pancit Malabon is seafood, which is likely because the city was traditionally a fishing village. Apart from being situated near the ocean, three rivers also run through the area.
In the Malabon Heritage Museum, anthropology professor Fernando Zialcita described pancit Malabon as a “local yet global dish,” citing its numerous influences—from the Chinese and Spanish to the Malay and even the Mexican—as a showcase of Filipino creativity and resourcefulness, integrating and indigenizing various cuisines to come up with something that was uniquely Filipino.
In more recent history, pancit Malabon earned nationwide recognition, thanks to numerous celebrities in the ‘60s and ‘70s who would stop over the city as they went to and from shoots. Before the advent of television and the internet, it was word-of-mouth that solidified this pancit’s position as one of the most well-loved takes on the classic dish.
Pancit Malabon history is a fascinating way to look at the country’s past, but for this dish with over 400 years of history, it’s even more exciting to look forward and see how it will continue to adapt to the times.
Recent Comments