As a rice-eating country, kakanin or rice cakes come a dime a dozen in the Philippines, but only a chosen few–two, in fact–have the recognition of being Christmas icons.
Puto bumbong is memorable for its striking violet hue, thanks to a purple variety of heirloom rice called pirurutong. Though this glutinous rice (malagkit) features in traditional puto bumbong recipes, modern iterations have featured other types. The rice is soaked overnight, then steamed inside bamboo tubes locally called “bumbong ng kawayan.” Filipino kitchens typically serve it with grated coconut and brown sugar.
Bibingka differs from other rice cakes because its texture is spongier. It feels more like a regular cake compared to the sticky, gelatinous quality of its kakanin cohorts. Malagkit rice is ground into a batter called galapong before it is baked in banana leaves over coals. It is usually topped with grated coconut and salted egg, but modern versions have showcased more creative permutations, like chocolate, ube, and pandan.
Traditionally, puto bumbong and bibingka are sold outside the church premises after Simbang Gabi, a set of early-morning masses celebrated in the nine days leading up to Christmas. Simbang Gabi, or Misa de Gallo, has been a Filipino custom since Spanish colonial times.
According to a feature on NoliSoli, Simbang Gabi days meant waking up early and working longer hours. Filipino farmers would load up on kakanin after mass and before the day’s labor. There is no written record on how bibingka and puto bumbong came to be most associated with the Christmas season. However, in the article, culinary maven Glenda Barretto noted that the farmers needed to consume something quick and convenient. Originally, these rice cakes were enjoyed with salabat (ginger tea). However, it became the fashion to eat them with hot chocolate when the Spaniards developed a chocolate culture in the 16th century.
Nowadays, bibingka and puto bumbong are available nearly all year round. However, nothing beats enjoying it at dawn just days before Christmas, munching the rest of your sleepiness away with warm bites of sweet and coconutty rice cake
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